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Innovation, themed sections: Paris Men's Fashion Week trade shows revise their scripts
What's new with the menswear trade shows scheduled in parallel with the Paris men's Fashion Week this season? Man Paris will be held from 19th to 21st January 2018 at its customary Place Vendôme venue - the same as last year - in two distinct areas: the Pavillon Vendôme and the Hôtel d’Evreux palace, with an extra showroom, open from 17th to 21st January, hosting 25 labels at 5 bis, rue Froissart. Man is the season's 'classic' show, and will host roughly one hundred brands - on par with last June’s session - among them regulars like Paraboot, Fred Perry, Gitman Vintage, Sage de Crêt, Arpenteur, Le Mont Saint Michel and Veja, plus about ten new names.
Among the rookies, Ovadia & Sons, a New York label which is already available at over 70 stores in the USA, a finalist at the CFDA/Vogue design prize in 2013 and at the International Woolmark Prize the following year. Other names to follow are Swedish label Schnayderman’s, a shirt specialist, and Ancor (exhibiting at the rue Froissart showroom), a Parisian label launched in 2016, featuring a blend of street culture and classic, made-in-France style.
The founders of Man Paris – Antoine Floch, Olivier Migda and Romain Bernardie-James – will then stage Man New York (on 23rd-25th January), and are busy planning both a show format more suitable to womenswear for Paris, and their new Tokyo show project. The latter will be a showcase for about twenty labels having strong ties with the Japanese market, and its format will be revealed on 12th January.
In the meantime, Man Paris awaits its visitors from 19th January, with a cocktail party organised for the show's opening evening, followed the next day by an event at the new Hôtel Bourbon nightclub.
The Capsule show, which was bought in 2014 by Reed Exhibitions, is saying farewell to the Maison de la Mutualité venue, its home for many years, and will downsize, moving to the French capital's cool 3rd arrondissement, at 14 rue du Vertbois, where it is scheduled from 19th to 21st January. On the new venue's four levels, Capsule will host about fifty directional labels (compared to about one hundred in the past), "from independent brands to the coolest designer labels."
While top billing goes to brands like Eastpak and Naked & Famous Denim, Capsule will also showcase emerging talents such as Sol-Sol, a streetwear brand hailing from South Africa, which has already collaborated with Levi's; Syndicate Original, a Ukrainian streetwear brand; Seveskig, blending leather with tailored cuts; and Wons Mous with its leather accessories. Among the French contingent, the show will feature Veni Vedi Vici, a Parisian label specialised in sweatshirts and t-shirts, and Cabane, focusing on French-manufactured knitwear, recently launched by Alix Briffaud.
The Tranoï show will be held on the same dates (19th-21st January) as Capsule, but it is changing its layout, introducing six themed sections and a new-look setting. It will host about one hundred menswear brands, slightly fewer than in the past, and will be structured in four separate themed sections: 'The Hype Society', with a streetwear, sportswear and hip-hop slant; 'The Rule Breaker', more rock 'n' roll and unconventional; 'The Timeless' for more classic brands; and 'The Eclectic', for the more eccentric ones.
The show will introduce about fifty new entries, among them Guerrilla-Group (a Taiwanese collective), M’s Braque (a Japanese vintage label), Les Hommes Urban (the sportswear line by Les Hommes), US label John Varvatos, and French labels Agnelle and Wattinne Paris.
Alongside the themed sections, Tranoï will also offer an area dedicated to fifteen emerging labels, featuring the designer duo behind Bodybound, former finalists at the Hyères Fashion Festival and now based in London, Latvian label Mareunrol’s and Parisian collective 8IGB.
Also noteworthy are the "10 Asian designers to watch," invited to Tranoï in collaboration with Fashion Asia Hong Kong and the Hong Kong Design Centre. They will exhibit their collections during the show, among them Christian Dada, Simon Gao and The World is Your Oyster.
Tranoï was once a 100% menswear show, but interestingly the number of womenswear exhibitors is now growing at a faster rate. About one hundred women's labels will be showcased at the Palais de la Bourse venue, an offering which was originally intended to feature pre-collections only, but it is now on par with the men's show.
Finally, Tranoï too will operate a showroom, on 18th-23rd January at 108 rue Vieille-du-Temple, staging its own Tranoï Week. Among the guests, the London Show Rooms by the British Fashion Council, introducing labels like Art School, celebrating queer style, and Stefan Cooke, recent winner of the H&M Design Award 2018.
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